Food
BGE Smoked Lamb Shoulder
Eight hours until it pulls itself apart
Prep
30 min
Cook
480 min
Servings
6
Equipment
bge
There is a particular moment in cooking a lamb shoulder, somewhere around hour six, when the smell coming off the Big Green Egg becomes something close to unreasonable. The fat has been rendering for hours, the spices have caramelised into the bark, the cherry wood smoke has been threading itself through the meat since morning. The neighbours have noticed. You have been asked twice what time dinner is.
The shoulder is, by virtue of its anatomy, ideally suited to this kind of cooking. It is a working muscle — heavily used by the animal, full of collagen and intramuscular fat — and it responds to long, low heat the way good prose responds to editing: everything unnecessary dissolves, and what remains is essential. At 90°C internal temperature, the collagen has converted to gelatin, the fat has basted the meat from within, and the fibres will pull apart with the gentlest persuasion.
The spice rub here draws from the Eastern Mediterranean tradition — cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cardamom — which has been marrying lamb for longer than most European cuisines have existed. This is not a cultural affectation but a matter of empirical fact: these spices know what to do with lamb. The smoke adds a dimension they could not have anticipated but deserve entirely.
Serve it pulled, in flatbreads, with a cold yogurt sauce and something sharp — thinly sliced red onions dressed in red wine vinegar, or a simple chopped salad. It will feed six people and make them very happy.
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Instructions
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