Chicken in Pumpkin Seed Sauce
Oaxacan pipián, simplified but not dumbed down
The pipián sauces of Mexico are among the oldest continuously prepared dishes in the Americas. When Hernán Cortés arrived in Tenochtitlan in 1519, the Aztec nobility were already dining on fowl in complex seed-thickened sauces that would take the Spanish another century to even begin to understand. These weren't the fiery chile bombs that would later come to define "Mexican food" in the Anglo imagination. They were nuanced, velvety, built on the bitter-sweet foundation of pepitas—pumpkin seeds—toasted until fragrant and ground to powder.
This particular version adds the indigenous tomatillo, which provides a tartness that balances the rich seeds, and just enough habanero heat to remind you that pre-Columbian cooks knew exactly what they were doing. The pistachios are a modern addition, bringing additional complexity and a subtle green color that nods to the more elaborate pipianes of Oaxaca.
The technique is straightforward but rewards patience: toast the seeds slowly until they're genuinely aromatic, blend the vegetables until they're silky-smooth, and don't rush the final whisking. The sauce should coat the chicken like velvet, which is precisely what the Aztec nobility had in mind five hundred years ago.
Method
-
1
Toast the pumpkin seeds
Set a large dry skillet over medium heat. Add pumpkin seeds and toast for about 3 minutes, shaking occasionally, until very fragrant and beginning to pop. Remove immediately.
💡 They can go from perfect to burnt in seconds—watch carefully.
-
2
Toast the sesame seeds
In the same skillet, toast sesame seeds for about 4 minutes, shaking frequently, until golden and aromatic. Remove.
-
3
Grind the seeds
Combine pumpkin and sesame seeds in a food processor. Blend until they become a fine powder. Set aside.
-
4
Poach the chicken
Remove chicken skin. Season with salt. Place in a large pot with the stock and bring to a simmer. Cook for 20 minutes. Remove chicken and set aside; reserve the stock.
-
5
Cook the aromatics
Add onion, garlic, habanero, tomatillos, and half the pistachios to the stock. Simmer for 10 minutes. Remove and discard the habanero.
-
6
Blend the sauce
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables to a blender. Add about 250ml of the stock. Blend until completely smooth. Add more stock if needed for pourable consistency.
-
7
Finish the sauce
Pour the blended sauce into a large skillet over medium-low heat. Slowly whisk in the ground seed mixture. The sauce should thicken to coat-the-spoon consistency. Add more stock if too thick.
-
8
Combine and serve
Add the chicken to the skillet and warm through. Serve with the sauce spooned over the top, garnished with remaining pistachios.
Notes & Tips
Habanero warning
- • This chile is significantly hotter than jalapeño. For mild heat, use only a quarter. For authentic Oaxacan fire, use the whole thing.
Stock matters
- • Homemade stock makes a considerable difference here, as the sauce is essentially thickened stock. If using commercial, choose low-sodium and taste before salting.
Variations
- • Pork works beautifully in place of chicken
- • For vegetarian: use vegetable stock and substitute thick slices of grilled zucchini
- • Adding a small amount of Mexican chocolate creates a proto-mole
Make-ahead
- • The sauce keeps for 3 days refrigerated. The chicken is best fresh but can be gently reheated in the sauce.